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By David A. Leenknecht, Andre Szuwalski and Ann R. Sherlock

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18, pp. 13-26. Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone,” Coastal Paper in a Storm,” Journal Engineering of in Japan, Hughes, S. , and Bergman, L. E. 1987. “Beta-Rayleigh Distribution for Shallow Water Wave Heights,” Proceedings of the American Society of Civil Engineers Specialty Conference on Coastal Hydrodynamics, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 17-31. Kuo, C. , and Kuo, S. T. 1974. Heights,” Proceedings of Civil Engineers, pp. 1211-1231. “Effect of Wave Breaking on Statistical Distribution Engineering in the Oceans, III, American Society Longuet-Higgins, M.

1985. “Significant Wave Height for Shallow Water Design,” Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol. 111, No. 5, pp. 828-842. 1-2-1o Beta-Ray leigh Distribution ACES Technical Wave Prediction Reference EXTREMALSIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHTANALYSIS TABLEOF CONTENTS ....................................................................................................................... Description General Assumptions and Limitations ............................................................................

Cnoidal Wave Theory 2-2-1 2-2-1 2-2-1 2-2-2 2-2-3 2-2-3 2-2-5 2-2-7 2-2-7 2-2-9 2-2-12 2-2 Wave Theory ACES Technical Reference CNOIDAL WAVE THEORY DESCRIPTION This application yields various parameters of wave motion as predicted by first-order (Isobe, 1985) and second-order (Hardy and Kraus, 1987) approximations for cnoidal wave theory. It provides estimates for common items of interest such as water surface elevation, general wave properties, kinematics, and pressure as functions of wave height and period, water depth, and position in the wave form.

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ACES - AUTOMATED COASTAL ENGINEERING SYSTEM - TECHNICAL REFERENCE by David A. Leenknecht, Andre Szuwalski and Ann R. Sherlock


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